Halong Bay - Part I

I am lulled into a restful sleep by the gentle sound of waves lapping against our ship. Wait. Scratch that. I am lying in bed, wide awake, listening to the ship’s crew singing the night away to Vietnamese Karaoke tunes. Even the Captain is letting loose. The Karaoke is part of the onboard entertainment (it’s this or squid fishing). Unsurprisingly most of the westerners have opted either for the fishing or for an early night (of Karaoke induced sleeplessness). On the first evening, I am no exception and after about 2 minutes of extremely uneventful fishing, I retire to my little cabin.

I’m in Halong Bay and (apart from the lousy tunes) it’s spectacular. We sail amid thousands of limestone islands, rising from the Ocean, each topped with thick jungle vegetation. I won’t even begin to describe the beauty so you’ll just have to take my word for it. Alternatively, I’ll give you a second to google some images! Back yet? Didn’t I tell you it was spectacular?

Even though the last few days have been cold and misty, this only adds a certain eeriness to the place that just makes it even more mysterious. The scene is perfect for a ghoulish horror movie (starring Jack Nicholson) and in the distance, a shoe floats forlorn in the emerald green water…Brrrrrrr…Perhaps today of all days, I shouldn’t allow my imagination to run wild especially since tonight, on my second night, I’m sharing the room with a stranger. A man I don’t know. Oh Joy…But before telling you this story, let me preface by stating that I think the Vietnamese are a cheeky bunch with a great sense of timing. Let me explain. I booked the Halong Bay cruise through my hotel. If you’re alone and don’t want to share a room, you’re expected to pay a 50$ supplement. The receptionist thinks the probability of sharing is slim so I chance it (How Italian of me) and don’t pay extra (How Dutch of me). On the morning of my departure, while waiting for the bus to pick me up at the hotel, I have breakfast and chat with another friendly receptionist, Bom (this is her real name and as you continue reading, you’ll agree it could not have been better suited for this story). My bus finally arrives and just as I board, Bom, who walked with me, casually mentions: “Ok Pola, tonight you hab room alone, tomorrow you share wid nice man. He 60 year old. Ok. Byyeeeeeeeeeeeee”.

Quick-witted as I am, my clever reaction naturally is: “What? No! What?”. Just then the bus door slams shut and as the bus drives away, Bom sees a bewildered wide-eyed woman staring back at her, two sweaty palms glued to the window, her “O” shaped lips silently mouthing the word: “Nooooooooooooo”.